迷路在溫州文藝小巷

溫州王謝祠石像

👣 本來只是想找個不遠的地方走走,結果隨便一走,就走進溫州的文藝迷宮。

打開地圖看到“朱自清故居”,腦袋立刻浮現課本里的那篇〈背影〉。
我心想:「欸,這不是我們學生時代每個人都被逼背過的那篇嗎?」
於是就決定去這裡啦~

🚶‍♂️ 跟著導航晃啊晃,突然看到一棟巴洛克風格的石雕大門,超有特色。
走近一看,竟然是「南戲博物館」。
我從小在台灣也看歌仔戲長大,對那種戲曲、那種故事,總覺得有種親切感。
裡面是傳統四合院格局,每一間都有不同主題:木偶、臉譜、戲台……
走在院子里,好像穿越到戲班後台,看演員準備出場的樣子。
我好像回到小時候在電視機前面陪媽媽看戲的日子。

🎭 結果更妙的是,我從博物館的一扇門走過去,居然到了朱自清的家!
原來南戲博物館和朱自清故居是連通的,真的像在玩迷宮。
牆上是朱家的族譜、老照片,還有〈背影〉里父親的物件。
那一刻真的感覺到,課本里的文字,突然變成了現實。
仔細看了他更多的文章、手稿,才發現朱自清不只是寫〈背影〉的文人,
更是一位深情又倔強的時代見證者。

🖋 走著走著,又看到地圖上寫著“墨池坊”,名字好熟。
我心想:「這不會又跟王羲之有關吧?」
果然,一走進去,就有濃濃的文化味,
路上許多小紀念館,走走看看很有意思。
🎨 再往前走到墨池公園,裡面的“墨池”兩個字是米芾寫的,
旁邊還有“王謝祠”,紀念王羲之和謝靈運。

忽然在小橋流水處發現「溫州美術館」的路牌,
想說都來了,就進去看看。
這次展的是“速寫“與”戲曲”,剛好呼應到南戲主題,
連展覽都充滿了巧合。
光影灑在白牆上,好幾個女孩在自拍📷,或許因為整棟建築本身就像個藝術品吧?

🏯 正準備回酒店時,前面一片牆,陽光照在“東甌”兩個字上,我又被吸過去。結果走進一看,竟然是「東甌王廟」。
這裡不只是座寺廟,主殿裡面還有東歐的歷史介紹,走過路過,千萬不要錯過。
進去才知道,原來溫州以前是“東甌王國”,
有自己的國王、歷史和傳說。

這趟Citywalk,真的是越迷路越驚喜。
從朱自清到王羲之,從南戲到東甌,
本來就想隨便走走,沒想到走的是場文藝小巷之旅,完全是意外的巧合和浪漫。
旅行有時候就是這樣——
不一定要目的地,走著走著,歷史就自己跑出來跟你打招呼。

I thought I was just taking a casual walk,

but somehow I wandered into Wenzhou’s literary labyrinth —

where every corner hides a story from a textbook, a poem, or a memory. 🌿

📍 Zhu Ziqing’s Former Residence

When I saw it on the map, I immediately thought of “The Back View (背影)”,

the essay every student once memorized in school.

Walking through his home felt like stepping into those words —

seeing his family’s old photos, manuscripts, and the table where he wrote.

It made literature suddenly real.

🎭 Nanqu Opera Museum (南戏博物馆)

Before reaching the residence, I stumbled upon this museum by accident.

It’s a traditional courtyard filled with opera masks, wooden puppets, and stage sets.

As someone who grew up watching Taiwanese opera with my mom,

it felt unexpectedly nostalgic — like coming home.

Through one doorway, I suddenly found myself inside Zhu Ziqing’s house —

turns out, the two buildings are connected. What a perfect coincidence.

🖋 Mochi Lane & Mochi Park

Further along, I came across Mochi Lane, named after a historic ink pool.

The calligraphy of “Mochi” (墨池) is by Mi Fu himself,

and nearby stands a small temple dedicated to calligraphy masters Wang Xizhi and Xie Lingyun.

Wenzhou truly breathes poetry through its stones and streets.

🎨 Wenzhou Art Museum

Just when I thought the walk was ending, I found the art museum —

this time featuring an exhibition on “Sketch and Opera.”

The theme echoed perfectly with my day,

and even the sunlight through the glass walls felt like art.

🏯 Dong’ou King’s Temple (东瓯王庙)

Before heading back, I noticed the words “Dong’ou” glowing on a wall.

Curious, I walked in — and discovered a temple dedicated to Wenzhou’s ancient kingdom,

once ruled by the King of Dong’ou.

It’s a mix of myth, history, and worship —

quiet but deeply meaningful.

✨ In the end, I realized this wasn’t just a walk —

it was a journey through time and culture.

From Zhu Ziqing to Wang Xizhi, from opera to ink and faith —

sometimes, you don’t look for history; it finds you first.

📍 Location: Downtown Wenzhou, Zhejiang, China

⏰ Best Time: Morning to late afternoon

💡 Tip: Wander without a plan — that’s how the best stories appear.